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From the pic by RDC and the value measured and the marking R54 I would suspect it to be a resistor. But then again. This was a controller board someone truly made a mess with that conductive glue crap. I'm going to let it be then. Thanks for thinking along :D

Came across these while looking for high res pics of a CG board, Matt will know about these already, but figured sharing is never a bad thing :) : ​http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=512284&pid=4306973&mode=threaded&show=&st=&#entry4306973

Hmm.. tried 80-90-100-1k-2k-10k. No joy. Controller turns on, but when I press the sync button the 4 leds start to blink a bit faster, but not going through the usual cycle. Hmm (I hmm a lot) : just noticed when trying to mimic the behaviour on a working (Matrix) controller. If I keep another...

Thanks, 1k is way over it. Have a kit full of them, so will start from 80ohm and then go up. Have two wires soldered to where the original resistor was, so it's easy to test. Thanks both !

Short story : sync button won't work anymore. I checked it for shorts (none found) and for continuity (registers all the way to the alt points when pressed), so apart from this resistor I'm kinda lost on what to check more. I've tried 1k, since a few other resistors on the board had that value...

Hi guys, Been given a controller to repair after a botched mod attempt. Think I got it all cleaned up, but there seems to be a resistor missing. Does anyone know the value of it, or can measure it for me ? I would, but I only have Matrix controllers here right now. It's the red boxed resistor :)

Was a good one for all of us, and thanks to Matt having a fresh pair of eyes it got resolved. And I got the test firmware :) So all good in the end ;)

I managed to get the lower link working, but the upper one .. no joy. I tried : http://www.viking360.com/downloads/XBOXRagnarokTestCodeandFirmware.zip http://www.viking360.com/downloads/XBOXRagnarok/TestCodeandFirmware.zip and a few others, but I lucked out on all of them. Can somebody make...

Lol, I was so bent on checking for shorts, that I never noticed those being soldered to the wrong spots.

At this point, I have no idea anymore, save from a faulty chip. Time for the big guy to chime in, I guess :) You're always welcome to let me take a look at it, but I'm in the Netherlands and I'm thinking you're in the US of A ?

I thought you already had the usb jack hooked up, but yes, connect that. Then use the Customization Software to see if it recognized the chip (don't turn the controller on, but make sure the batteries are charged when you hook it up via USB). If it recognizes the chip led 3 and 4 should blink...

No, I misunderstood. I thought your mod switch was not responding at all. Hot glue.. provided it wasn't so hot that it melted the solder (which I sincerely doubt).. doesn't do much harm on its own, its not conductive. People damage parts when they try to take it off and it has bonded to SMD...

Not needed right now, but it's good to know you have a few on the shelf. Thanks !

Hmm.. just thought of something very stupid. He can't switch the mods off or select them. Did you try measuring continiuity between the two legs of the switch button when you press it down and release it ? No hotglue problems in that region, preventing the switch from.. euh.. switching :) ?

Yeah, the angle is a bit awkward but you can see the lower part of the white TP26 lettering on my pic.

Make sure you keep the bare wire as short as possible and make very sure no other contacts in the vicinity are shorted. Also, with low grade 30awg (I prefer to use Kynar), too much heat might cause the plastic to shrivel. You said you resoldered 4 times, but those 4 times, did you use new wire...

True, didn't even think of that possibility. Anyway, closed up now and working :)

Ok, got an idea for the room issue concerning the usb port. I'm going to remove the white socket for the rumble connector and just solder those wires straight to the board. That will give me a lot more room to work with.

Well, if everything is alright, and you are sure there are no bare spots, then the only explanation is a faulty chip. But then again, that's assuming your soldering is perfect.. Not sure what I can suggest to you more. Here's your picture of the chip with the crystal highlighted. Lower right...

Good find, I'm curious about this too. Will see if I can pick one up here in Europe.. http://www.alibaba.com/product/us108809485-113294759-0/ThingM_BlinkM.html Just checked, but the shipping cost would be around 35$. Any kind soul would be willing to send one or two to me with regular air...