Hey, i didnt know where else to ask so i turned here. Is there a difference in the PCBs of the traqnsformign dpad controllers and the regular black/black controllers? At the moment, the transforming dpad ones are cheaper on amazon, and I ordered a controller from gaminggenerations.com and they cant get any more of the black/black charge and play kits from microsoft. Apparently they are pushing for the transforming dpad controller sales or something. I ordered a mod and thought i would get this controller in, as it requires a cg or cg2 pcb.
transforming vs regular controller PCBs
- Thread starter skullriot
- Start date
Greetings;
No guarantee about this information, but for the past 6 months, here are the PCBs that we have been receiving in the various controllers (note: all are the wireless variety):
MW3 - CG2
GOW3 (with transforming d-pad) - CG2
Silver controller (with transforming d-pad) - CG2
Plain Black - Matrix2
Halo special edition - CG2
So pretty much all special editions are coming with CG2 PCB, and the plain black are coming with Matrix2. This could change at any time. Also, if you buy off e-bay, which can sometimes have slow turnover in stock (or fake items from hk) it's a little more random. But if you are buying from walmart/bestbuy on-line or direct from a distributor, then our list above should currently be accurate.
No guarantee about this information, but for the past 6 months, here are the PCBs that we have been receiving in the various controllers (note: all are the wireless variety):
MW3 - CG2
GOW3 (with transforming d-pad) - CG2
Silver controller (with transforming d-pad) - CG2
Plain Black - Matrix2
Halo special edition - CG2
So pretty much all special editions are coming with CG2 PCB, and the plain black are coming with Matrix2. This could change at any time. Also, if you buy off e-bay, which can sometimes have slow turnover in stock (or fake items from hk) it's a little more random. But if you are buying from walmart/bestbuy on-line or direct from a distributor, then our list above should currently be accurate.
Fredrow
Active Member
It should be the CG2 PCB inside of that controller..... I posted all that information that E' posted in this thread before; the only difference was that I didn't have the information about the MW3 controllers but the past four MW3 controllers I have bought have all been CG2 PCB's....
Sweet I will also post up what board I receive just for more data. Also any recommendations on what to use to clean off the solder points? last time I used my exacto but thats not reliable enough if there is a better option.
I tried fiberglass pen and found it to be similar to the sandpaper in that it will expose a wider area than xacto knife. Fiberglass pen - the only place I could find to buy was e-bay. I ended up trying once and goin back to xacto. Fredrow swears by the sandpaper. Fiberglass pen might be a happy medium. It does do the trick. If you try xacto again, get one with the wide blade instead of the skinny blade.
I should mention why I didn't like fiberglass pen is that it's messy, as you rub it wear down the fiberglass leaving little fiberglass residue on everything that needs cleaned before you solder.
I should mention why I didn't like fiberglass pen is that it's messy, as you rub it wear down the fiberglass leaving little fiberglass residue on everything that needs cleaned before you solder.
thanks for the input guys... I think I am going to drop by my local electronics shop (no not radio shack) and try to find the pen and some exacto blades and maybe a new tip for my iron. I rushed last time I installed a duo so i think this time I will take my time and do it perfect lol.
fredrow do you have any suggestions on a momentary that has a diameter similar to the abxy buttons? I wanna remap the "b" button to the bottom of the controller and put the tac switches on the top.
fredrow do you have any suggestions on a momentary that has a diameter similar to the abxy buttons? I wanna remap the "b" button to the bottom of the controller and put the tac switches on the top.
Fredrow
Active Member
I think you should really try the sandpaper out. If you're thinking you need to sandpaper within the "lines" then you maybe thinking to much into it....
Here is a picture I found on my desktop, (I will take a post a better picture tonight) of a CG2 PCB with the ABXY and Right-Bumper VIA-holes solder-mask removed by sandpaper....
You just need to cut a small square of sandpaper and then go to work. The main reason why I use sandpaper is because it gives you the ability to solder straight to the VIA-holes on the PCB. The top of the VIA-hole is a nice copper circle with nothing surrounding it that can cause a solder bridge. Don't get me wrong you can cause a solder-bridge but you would have to try very hard at doing so...... If you have anymore question's just go ahead and ask away. Also I would highly recommend that you DO NOT go and buy one of those fiber-glass pens because they suck. They have no really controller plus just like E' said, after using the pen you're work area is going to be covered with very small pieces of fiber-glass and if your a dumb-***** (JUST LIKE ME) and you put you're forearms down on you're work area then you will get stuck with a bunch of small fiber-glass pieces that turn out to be a B*^ch to remove!!!!
Here is a picture I found on my desktop, (I will take a post a better picture tonight) of a CG2 PCB with the ABXY and Right-Bumper VIA-holes solder-mask removed by sandpaper....
You just need to cut a small square of sandpaper and then go to work. The main reason why I use sandpaper is because it gives you the ability to solder straight to the VIA-holes on the PCB. The top of the VIA-hole is a nice copper circle with nothing surrounding it that can cause a solder bridge. Don't get me wrong you can cause a solder-bridge but you would have to try very hard at doing so...... If you have anymore question's just go ahead and ask away. Also I would highly recommend that you DO NOT go and buy one of those fiber-glass pens because they suck. They have no really controller plus just like E' said, after using the pen you're work area is going to be covered with very small pieces of fiber-glass and if your a dumb-***** (JUST LIKE ME) and you put you're forearms down on you're work area then you will get stuck with a bunch of small fiber-glass pieces that turn out to be a B*^ch to remove!!!!
Like fredrow said, sandpaper works well. Also if you are good with an xacto knife, you could scrape the trace. I have not had any luck with fiberglass pens either. It seems to take me forever the scratch it down to the trace, or via hole, and you have fiberglass all over. If youve ever put insulation into a house, youll know why little fiberglass pieces are a *****.
yeah I picked up some sand paper and some new exacto blades (got a rounded one that may work well)
thanks for the input again guys... last time I used the exacto method but ended up cutting through a trace (what a PITA that was to fix) so I am going to use the sandpaper on all the traces I can... on the others i will use the blade and be extra careful lol.
my fresh controller got here in the mail today (im in class at the moment so I dont know what board it has yet) I wanna get it built but I have to wait on that tac switch for the B button remap.
thanks for the input again guys... last time I used the exacto method but ended up cutting through a trace (what a PITA that was to fix) so I am going to use the sandpaper on all the traces I can... on the others i will use the blade and be extra careful lol.
my fresh controller got here in the mail today (im in class at the moment so I dont know what board it has yet) I wanna get it built but I have to wait on that tac switch for the B button remap.
Fredrow
Active Member
Hey mavic, I went ahead and worked on a CG2 board+took pics of the work so that I can help ya out with a quick lil tut on using sandpaper on the VIA-holes.......
First take you're 220-grit sandpaper and cut a couple small squares. Take one of your squares and fold it in half then go to work on the 4 VIA-holes (X-button, A-button, Y-button, B-button) that are located right under the A-button. Also don't forget about the VIA-hole (Right-Bumper) that is located between the X-button and A-button. After you have removed the solder-mask from the VIA-holes on the top PCB; take a Q-tip and dip it in some 99%-Isopropyl Alcohol and clean the area's you used the sandpaper on. The next thing you want to do is cover each VIA-hole with some flux then tin each VIA-hole with some solder.
Now just go ahead and do the same thing to the bottom of the PCB. The VIA-holes on the bottom are for player 3+4 LEDz and also the Right-Thumbstick.
Now here is some pics of the bottom PCB with the wires connected to the VIA-holes.
GREY wire=Right-Thumbstick
BLUE wire=Player-3 LED
ORANGE wire=Player-4 LED
Pics of the top PCB with the wires soldered to the VIA-holes.
BROWN wire=Right-Bumper
BLUE wire=X-button
GREEN wire=A-button
YELLOW wire=Y-button
RED wire=B-button
First take you're 220-grit sandpaper and cut a couple small squares. Take one of your squares and fold it in half then go to work on the 4 VIA-holes (X-button, A-button, Y-button, B-button) that are located right under the A-button. Also don't forget about the VIA-hole (Right-Bumper) that is located between the X-button and A-button. After you have removed the solder-mask from the VIA-holes on the top PCB; take a Q-tip and dip it in some 99%-Isopropyl Alcohol and clean the area's you used the sandpaper on. The next thing you want to do is cover each VIA-hole with some flux then tin each VIA-hole with some solder.
Now just go ahead and do the same thing to the bottom of the PCB. The VIA-holes on the bottom are for player 3+4 LEDz and also the Right-Thumbstick.
Now here is some pics of the bottom PCB with the wires connected to the VIA-holes.
GREY wire=Right-Thumbstick
BLUE wire=Player-3 LED
ORANGE wire=Player-4 LED
Pics of the top PCB with the wires soldered to the VIA-holes.
BROWN wire=Right-Bumper
BLUE wire=X-button
GREEN wire=A-button
YELLOW wire=Y-button
RED wire=B-button
Where is a good place to get the 30G wire from on the internet?
Thanks for the original reply, I ordered a new controller off amazon, and im hoping that they have enough back stock to where its not a matrix 2. I wanted everything on that controller except the main shell and buttons. :/
Edit: Haha, read this and then it just now sunk in that you explained what the wires were connected to >.> So if i wanted to clone ABXY to tac switches on the under side of my controller, where would the wires need to be soldered to when i return them from the switch?
Thanks for the original reply, I ordered a new controller off amazon, and im hoping that they have enough back stock to where its not a matrix 2. I wanted everything on that controller except the main shell and buttons. :/
Edit: Haha, read this and then it just now sunk in that you explained what the wires were connected to >.> So if i wanted to clone ABXY to tac switches on the under side of my controller, where would the wires need to be soldered to when i return them from the switch?
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In the past Radio shack has 30 awg but last time I bought there it was some crappy slippery stuff.
I have bought from Frys if you have a Frys in your area, but there's no Frys Electronics where I live now. They might have it on-line.
We buy from jameco.com these days.
There are also some sellers on E-Bay that sell more colors than are typically available anywhere else if you want more colors.
I have bought from Frys if you have a Frys in your area, but there's no Frys Electronics where I live now. They might have it on-line.
We buy from jameco.com these days.
There are also some sellers on E-Bay that sell more colors than are typically available anywhere else if you want more colors.