First two installs .. and hello :)

[dogeatdog]

Hi there,

New to this forum and new to controller modding (I did however do my fair share of RGH installs and other solder jobs, so no newcomer in that regard).

Had some trouble with the first controller I did (I ordered 4 Ragnarok chips), even got the customer to burn the trace on the chip due to hooking up usb AND powering the controller on at the same time. But luckily I could repair that chip by fixing the trace.

Here are some pics of my first install. Note that I forgot (I genuinly did forget it ) to make pics of the backside. Also, I've moved the chip a bit to the top in my second install and took more care of avoiding the danger spots (screw holes and such).



In the second install I used the alt point for the sync. I found it to need a shorter wire (always a good thing) and no risk of bridging or ruining the original location. I also used hot glue to keep the wires in place in the second install.
I have no pics from the second install, but if you're interested I can make a few when I do my third one later this week. I'll be butchering an old white shell I have here to look for a better spot for the usb jack though, because the current spot has so little room for error that it's quite a tedious task if you don't get the angle quite right.
When (or if) I find a better spot, I'll be sure to post it here although I think the powers that be have looked at this themselves before (can't blame a guy for trying).

Here are the alt points for the sync point, taken from a PDF I found on the internet.

 

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

Thats good info on secondary sync trace solder points. U might want to add that on the CG1 & CG2 pics that the wires are in a bad spot. U never want the wire to run up the middle were the directional pad rest. All the pressure of the D pad sits in the middle of the four up, down left & right pressure pads. Over time it can pinch the wire or even rip the wire right off the trace making that connection useless. As long as the wires run off or around the outsides of the pressure pads there will be less wear and tear of your solder points and wires. Perferably u never want to soder of the pressure pads. If there are alterantive solder traces that dont run through pressure points then thats where u want to make your weilds at. When I get enough money to buy another controller Ill show my CG2 install of my ragnarok chip I have liying around. Ill do a alternative leds and A, B, X, Y buttons that dont connect off the pressure pads or strate off the LED.

 

[dogeatdog]

Thanks for the tip, I'll make sure to pay attention on this when the lazy company that needs to send me some controllers gets busy and I finally receive some new controllers (hopefully tomorrow by the way ).
I'll take pics of the next install and add them to this topic to prevent cluttering of the forum.

Also, you do realize that those alternative sync point picture is not how I route the wires, of course ? The sync wire goes to the lower left, with the other wires. So this picture is more like how it is :

And if it's that important, then page 12 of the DIY guide might give the wrong idea as well, I would do it like this then (yay for awesome paint skills ) :

Am I wrong here or do you agree ? (I'm *very* new at all this controller stuff, so please enlighten me if I'm seeing things wrong).

Also very interested in your installation pics when the time comes

 

[modded matt]

The install tuts provided are for in experienced installers who need fool proof contact points. the sinc button as with just about every other button can be tapped from the back of the controller using traces. this will have a higher risk of damaging the controller which is why Viking does not show these points. I personally never like to run a wire under the button pads (the rubber piece that makes contact with the mobo) if this is not seated properly, you could feel a difference in the face buttons or dpad. running wires under these pads also can create friction on the wire which can over time break the solder joint or tear a trace/via

cg2:
http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34543.0.html
CG:
http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34544.0.html

 

[dogeatdog]

The install tuts provided are for in experienced installers who need fool proof contact points. the sinc button as with just about every other button can be tapped from the back of the controller using traces. this will have a higher risk of damaging the controller which is why Viking does not show these points. I personally never like to run a wire under the button pads (the rubber piece that makes contact with the mobo) if this is not seated properly, you could feel a difference in the face buttons or dpad. running wires under these pads also can create friction on the wire which can over time break the solder joint or tear a trace/via

cg2:
http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34543.0.html
CG:
http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34544.0.html

Those are very useful. Thanks !

 

[modded matt]

The Praise belongs to RDC for his work with the documentation.

 

[odingalt]

Agreed with the yellow wire coming off of d-pad right. Our techs figured that out on day 1. You can blame the boss for putting together the DIY instructions and showing the yellow wire running right through the middle because that will never work without screwing up the d-pad.

 

[dogeatdog]

Ok, got an idea for the room issue concerning the usb port. I'm going to remove the white socket for the rumble connector and just solder those wires straight to the board. That will give me a lot more room to work with.

 

[modded matt]

you can remount the connector to the top.

 

[dogeatdog]

True, didn't even think of that possibility. Anyway, closed up now and working