First Wired Viking 360 Mod

mlongo3

New Member
Hello! It's been a while since I've posted anything on these forums!

But I recently wanted to go back into modding Xbox 360 Controllers just for fun. Back in the day I had a business that offered wired modded controllers (simple 5 mode rapid-fire +jitter) and now I want to make the first (I havent seen anyone attempt this) wired Viking 360 Controller. Here are some pictures of the prototype I've made of the controller. The pictures show a regular wireless controller that doesnt use batteries but instead a Usb cord (took it off of a wired controller) At first it was quite challenging because when i doing some readings with the DMM i found out that the old Matrix controllers aren't easy to mod :p So instead I modded a CG2 Controller! I will be adding a viking 360 mod (hopefully this week) and ill post the finished pictures and maybe do a video to prove it works, hahaha :)IMG_1616.jpgIMG_1617.jpgIMG_1618.jpgIMG_1627.jpg
 

odingalt

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Interesting. They tell me that the wired controller is a "CL" common line type. Do you know if anybody has posted a schematic type drawing to explain how the buttons on a wired XBOX 360 controller work? I don't own one and haven't ever disassembled or tried to hack one before.
 

WHITE 4ND N3RDY

ModdingBros Representative
I was researching this and if im correct what is actually happening here is the usb cable is being connected to the positive / negitive points of the controllers battery connections. The positive wire and negitive ground wire is being connected to the controller boards battery connections +-. The white & green wires off the usb cord are not being used. This will provide the volts to the controller board to power the controller but the controller is really still a wireless controller. It will not give u access to PC play or the faster button reponse that wired controllers offer compaired to wireless lag.

Its a very cool concept dont get me wrong and it looks sleek with the flat back "no battery pack" but its still a wireless controller just with the battery pack obsoleated. The PNC cable will offer the same result and still gives the option of using batteries or playing off the xboxes' power supply from the usb ports.

Seeing this thread made me want to try to get a CG2 ragnarok chip to work into a wired microsoft controller but the one main issue that I see is the ability to connect the chip to the sync buttion which is on all wireless controllers. The wired controllers auto sync when pluged in to the usb ports of the xbox. There is no actual physical button that opperates a sync button. This leads me to some un-known questions like is it possible to by-pass the synce button on the ragnarok chip by installing a tac switch and hooking the sync of the rag chip to the tac than to a ground or does the sync button connection require a voltage for it to opperate? Could I possibly connect a positive run to a tac and run the sync wire from the chip to the positivley charged tac leg and then run the other tac leg to a ground? And if so what voltage would it require? I dont even know if this is plausible so I ask anyone reading this if they could awnser this question. I could also take my voltage reader and use that to see what voltage comes off the middle pin on the sync button. If I could figure this one detail out Im about 50% positive I may be able to hack a wired microsoft controller to work with the ragnarok CG2 chip. The wired microsoft boards appear to be very simmalir to the cg2 controllers.

If all else fails i can always pull the chip out and re install it into a wireless cg2 controller and im sure i could do all this without briking the wired controller. Might give this a shot as it peaks my intrest to do a true wired controller mod. If i can find out more information on by-passing the the chips sync to say a tac button I will persure foward on this build. It would be nice to have a true wired microsoft controller with a rag chip that has true PC to xbox connection through usb and the benifits of less lag as a hard lined connection.
 
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WHITE 4ND N3RDY

ModdingBros Representative
With some research i realized the usb wires white & green are actually d+ / d- connections. This means its possible to mod the ragnarok 3.5mm jack to the chip. Or even a on off spst switch and program strate from the usb in the PC! Now only if i can figure out how to bypass the sync connection? P.s still need to find the VR connection. Anyone have any suggestions?

I bought a wirless microsoft controller today so this weekend Im going to give it a go. What I hope to achomplish is a working ragnarok on wired controller that can also be programmed to the software without the 3.5mm jack but instead through the usb port using a single pull single throw switch.
 
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modded matt

Active Member
I have a lot to add, but this site's coding is giving me a lot of issues. I would so love to fix so I will keep it short. you know how to contact me directly if you have specific questions.

RDC has posted all the scans of wired controllers, they are on Acidmods.

The sinc button is only momentary to ground, so your tact idea will work fine.

For charging on a wireless controller, you should use the controllers on board circuitry to step down the voltage. do this by connecting to the PNC voltage pins, not direct to battery terminals.

On a wireless controller, you can use the PNC to remove the 3.5mm jack, you need to cut the traces to the data lines from the pnc on the mobo and wire the rag to those points. There are instructions on this in the archived section of the legacy controllers.

On a wired controller, there is no PNC port, so I am unsure of how to not use the 3.5 jack, it can be ported to a usb jack. (they are the same just a different shape). you can get some 8 pin usb jacks and make your own custom cables.
 

WHITE 4ND N3RDY

ModdingBros Representative
I have a lot to add, but this site's coding is giving me a lot of issues. I would so love to fix so I will keep it short. you know how to contact me directly if you have specific questions.

RDC has posted all the scans of wired controllers, they are on Acidmods.

The sinc button is only momentary to ground, so your tact idea will work fine.

For charging on a wireless controller, you should use the controllers on board circuitry to step down the voltage. do this by connecting to the PNC voltage pins, not direct to battery terminals.

On a wireless controller, you can use the PNC to remove the 3.5mm jack, you need to cut the traces to the data lines from the pnc on the mobo and wire the rag to those points. There are instructions on this in the archived section of the legacy controllers.

On a wired controller, there is no PNC port, so I am unsure of how to not use the 3.5 jack, it can be ported to a usb jack. (they are the same just a different shape). you can get some 8 pin usb jacks and make your own custom cables.
Thanks matt. I do have the schematics of the wired CL controller from RDC. As far as all the button connections it should be simple and if I can hook a monetary tac as a sync bypass then that's even better news. They LS pin outs appear to e the same so I'm sure the VR point should be the same. As obsoleating the 3.5 km jack the only issue I see is the UBUS connection "if this is even needed??". The white wire is D- the green wire is D+ red wire 5V and black wire ground. If I sever the lines before the traces I figure I can get a spst switch and wire that under the guide button to power on/off programming mode. Ill have to get a resistor to drop the volts down from the 5 v power supply as well. As long as I can toggle between the chip and to the actual controller in theory I can program it through the USB port on the wired controller. I will just add a monetary tac where the sync button normally would rest for programming on the fly. It goi g to be a challenge for me but I'm almost positive I can make it happen. I'll post pics of my progress sometime this Sunday. I'll just use my digital camera instead of my cell phone so it will be easier to upload my pitcures. Its going to be a fun project. I Dont believed anyone has modded a true wired controller with a viking chip so I'm pretty pumped to be the first to tackle this.
 
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WHITE 4ND N3RDY

ModdingBros Representative
Update scrappin this project. The viking chip dosent reconize the CL board. The voltage is too hard to work on as well. There ar COM test points that are 1.8 V and the main 5V pin is too much volts. There is one more pinnout I found on the CL which was 3.09 V but still no go. Its a loosing fight I even used resistors to dial the voltage to the right volts and still no go. Im positive the cg2 chip isnt supported with the CL boards pinnouts. Oh well I tried and learned some new stuff. Anyways was surfing acidmods forums and found some new opensourse hex files! One looks pretty promissing. Its a 4 mode stealth ; mode 1 off, mode 2 RF on RT, mode 3 akimbo RF & mode 4 sniper breath. All RF is re programmible and it seems legget just downloaded the RF hex into my saved pickit 2 files and will test it out sometime later!
 

w02057

New Member
Update scrappin this project. The viking chip dosent reconize the CL board. The voltage is too hard to work on as well. There ar COM test points that are 1.8 V and the main 5V pin is too much volts. There is one more pinnout I found on the CL which was 3.09 V but still no go. Its a loosing fight I even used resistors to dial the voltage to the right volts and still no go. Im positive the cg2 chip isnt supported with the CL boards pinnouts. Oh well I tried and learned some new stuff. Anyways was surfing acidmods forums and found some new opensourse hex files! One looks pretty promissing. Its a 4 mode stealth ; mode 1 off, mode 2 RF on RT, mode 3 akimbo RF & mode 4 sniper breath. All RF is re programmible and it seems legget just downloaded the RF hex into my saved pickit 2 files and will test it out sometime later!

Just my contribution. If I am remembering correctly the latest wired x360 controllers aren't like the troublesome Matrix 2 boards found in some of the newer wireless controllers. All of the digital buttons (A, B, X, Y etc.) are logic high (high voltage) when released, and logic low (ground, well almost ground in this case) when pressed. The triggers are also like the Matrix boards; high voltage when released (just shy of 1.5v if I remember correctly) and low voltage (about 0.3v) when pressed. The player/ring of light LEDs are also wired the same as Matrix boards (sink LED's cathode to turn on).

It shouldn't be too hard for odin to modify his firmware to allow viking modchips to work with wired controllers.

As for the problems you were having with modding your wireless controller into a wired, if I have correctly understood you're basically installing a wired controller's rear shell and USB cable onto a wireless controller containing a viking modchip, so you can have a controller that can be powered via USB but still retain the modchip? Isn't this just a neater approach to having a plug and charge cable connected?
Surely all that would be required is to solder the 4 wires from the new USB cable onto the correct 4 points on the plug and charge port (+5v, ground, USB data in, USB data out)?
 

w02057

New Member
Also you can still maintain the "jack-free" USB connectivity by connecting the white and green wires in the USB cable (data in / data out) to the correct points on the modchip. You don't need the third as the ground (black) wire inside the cable would already be connected to ground, so when the controller is connected to a PC via this cable they would both be tethered to ground.

I believe the data in/out wires (green / white) as used during charging (don't understand what data would need to be transferred that isn't already sent wirelessly), but as a battery pack can no longer be connected to the controller for charging these two wires can be connected directly to the modchip.

To conclude it should be a piece of cake!
 

WHITE 4ND N3RDY

ModdingBros Representative
No I'm not transforming a wireless into a wired controller I was trying to mod a wireless controller which is a cl board with a CG 2 wireless ragnarok chip. The software programmed onto the cg2 chip won't register with the wired cl board. I could easily take a wireless controller and hook a USB up to it and install it into wired shell with the rag chip installed. I was trying to create a true wired ragnarok controller for the benefits of no wireless lagg and ability to connect to a PCM with a special wireless adapter. I was basically trying to create something that's never been done. I got some big works in progress and in a couple of months I'm going to rock people with some insane open soirée hex codes for 12f683 chips!
 
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