2 odins ravens that need repair- Will pay $

[dbleznak]

Hi - I have 2 new Odins Ravens that seem to have both shorted out. I have tried everything on the software side (Hidbootloader button test code wont load even know I get successful messages from the bootloader). I'm willing to pay someone for the repair of these two ravens. Anyone interested contact me at dbleznak@gmail.com

Thanks,
Dan

 

[obo]

Talk to fredrow @ east-seattle-electronics he'll do it.
How long ago did you buy them? Where did you buy them? If you got them from this site they probly still have a warrenty

 

[IrishStyle]

If you do not have a warranty left. I would suggest East Seattle Electronics....I would offer but it doesn't seem right on my part.

 

[Fredrow]

If you do not have a warranty left. I would suggest East Seattle Electronics....I would offer but it doesn't seem right on my part.

Irish if someone post on here first you can go ahead and offer your help. Its all good, its not like this guy emailed me first or anything....lol..... Don't worry about stepping on someones toes man...Its all good in da hood..... :lol:

And to top it off this guy seems kind of Fishy if you ask me...... I'm very skeptical about this one, seems very odd that the Chances of one person owning 2 Raven can get them both to sync up with the boot-loader but can not load any drivers onto them.....very strange if you ask me.....

 

[obo]

Maybe, but if he ships them to you, and pays you in advance, might be worth a shot. But im probly missing something here.

 

[dbleznak]

There is nothing fishy here. Here is what happened

Hi -
I have purchased two Odins Raven controllers from Viking360 over the past two months and both controllers have stopped working. Specifically, the RT has stopped working. I have tried re-programing them but that has failed. I have followed all of you instructions to the letter but nothing has worked. My suspicion is that static electricity traveled through the 3.5mm jack port and shorted out the circuit, however I am no electrical enginier so my guess is worthless. I am a huge fan of your products and I think that you guys are the best in the business. I can send you the two controllers if you can fix them for me. I will pay a fee for the repair and shipping of these two controllers. Let me know what you would like me to do. I can Fed Ex them to you at my expense to expedite the process, just let me know where to send them. Below is the receipt information for both controllers. Thank you so much for your help

Mon, Feb 1 2010 5:51pm - Viking360.com Staff
Daniel

That's an awful starnge coincidence that both controllers right triggers have given up!

Did you check the 'allow configuration word programming' box the last time you programmed your controller?

Would you be willing to go to the Downloads page and download the 'button test code' for your controller?

Install the button test code, power up your controller, then hold down the right trigger and see if any codes flash on the LED's.

Keep in touch,

Einar
Tue, Feb 2 2010 6:17am
Hi Einar -
Thanks for your response. I downloaded the button test code, then checked the world programming box. Then I loaded the button test code on each controller. Neither worked. When I say that, I mean the following; neither controller successfully got into programing mode nor did they load the button test code. I used fresh batteries and followed all of the directions. All that happened was the player 1 and 2 leds flashed as if the controller was not synced (when in programming mode the leds for player 1 and 2 blink faster, right?). Neither controller was able to get back into programming mode and that is why I could not even load the button test code. I agree with you that this is awfully strange that the exact same problem would happen to two new controllers. I have been using the sniper only driver for MW2 on both of these controllers. I hope that isn't what caused them to die? What do you suggest I try next. Like I said earlier, I have no problem sending them back to you and having you repair them (and I have no problem paying for it as well). I think you have done such a great job with this enterprise and I know that Viking360 has a bright future. Thanks so much for your help.

Regards,

Daniel Bleznak
Tue, Feb 2 2010 9:12pm - Viking360.com Staff
You'll know it's in programming mode when LED3 and LED4 turn off (doesn't really have anything to do with LED1 and LED2, they'll do whatever they normally do, either flash away if your controller isn't sync'ed, or LED1 will light up if it turns on your xbox and syncs to it as well)

So with LED3/LED4 turning off, loading hidbootloader.exe and plugging in the controllers, no message on hidbootloader?
Wed, Feb 3 2010 5:47am
I do get the proper messages from the hidbootloader, i.e. device attached, hex loaded, program verify successful, reset device. But I still get no response from the controllers. Its as if both controllers are stuck in programing mode with just player 1 and 2 leds blinking and no button codes blinking after button test code is loaded. When this first happened while playing MW2 with the controllers, I got no response from the right tac switch, left tac switch and the RT. LT, LB, RB, a, b, x, y all seamed to work. After loading the button test code, I got no response from any button. This is really odd. I think it is a hardware issue, meaning a short circuit of some kind. I'll try anything you suggest. If you think I'm SOL (shit out of luck) then that sucks for me, but I hope there is some kind of way you can help me. Thanks for everything and I really appreciate it. I look forward to hearing from you.

Dan Bleznak
Thu, Feb 4 2010 9:36am
How much would it cost to have these two controllers repaired? Do you do repair work or do you know anyone that does?

Thanks

 

[IrishStyle]

Are you hitting "Reset Device" after you program the controller?

 

[dbleznak]

Yes

 

[odingalt]

We got these two controllers into our shop late last week. We ended up replacing the chips, we shipped them back out to the customer at the end of the week.

We're completely stumped on this one! I couldn't find the problem with the chips. The chips were both essentially stuck in USB bootloader mode. You could get into USB bootloader, and reflash the controllers succfessfully, but couldn't get the chips out of USB bootloader. It's as if all the I/O pins had gotten fried somehow.

In any case, I had a laundry list of suggestions for the customer but no scientific explanation for this one, will continue to monitor the situation. Most of my suggestions were centered around only using 'name brand' AA batteries or name-brand rechargeable packs, avoid third party battery pack makers - you've all seen the videos of that girl's cell phone blowing up in her pocket - this is from buying the cheap Chinese knockoff batteries. They are dangerous and do not following the proper manufacturing guidelines.

This particular customer was using industrial refurbished batteries but they were name-brand, not sure if this contributed to the mod chip's demise. Also I suggested staying away from using any external USB hubs that are powered from an AC outlet and plugging the controllers directly into the PC.

Oh also we sent him new 3.5mm-to-USB cables in case there was something about the cable causing issues. Also recommend if you use play n' charge cable, use the one we send you, not any third-party stuff. I had to sound like a microsoft salesman but sometimes sticking with name brand accessories is the best way to protect your investment.

Well, my curiosity is killing me on this one but hopefully this will be the last of the customer's problems since it was both controllers that had the same failure of the mod chip, this is a huge coincidence, which is why I am suspecting equipment common to both controllers (3.5mm-to-USB cable, PnC cable, certain battery pack, a certain USB externally powered hub, or some other device or procedure that let to their demise)