Cant get mod to work

LHPOWELL

New Member
controller is fully functioning, practicaly brand new. the mods just wont switch on. yes the mod switch isnt glued in yet i was making sure everything was working first.
 

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odingalt

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Can you boot it into test mode? When powering up instead of just hitting guide button, hold both bumpers and the back button and then press the guide button to power up. If it does boot into test mode the LED3/LED4 will blink back and forth a few times and then it will start executing the button test codes from the last page of the .PDF install manual.
 

odingalt

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I can't see anything obvious in the pictures but the pictures aren't detailed enough to make out the solder connections. Do you have any flux, you could try refluxing and resoldering the pins on that big black 44-pin chip on the modchip itself, this would tell us if it was a bad modchip.

[Normally I will tell a customer the problem is not the modchip, but this particular flexible modchip had some issues with reflow in the conveyor oven, the board could warp during reflow, lifting up the pins on that 44-pin TQFP main CPU on the modchip.]
 
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WHITE 4ND N3RDY

ModdingBros Representative
One of your wires looks severed. I can tell your wire got into a pinch point.

Jpg image # 3; third wire over from left to right. Look by the trigger. (Wire has been pinched)

It also looks to me like some of the soldering pads to the flexboard are slightly lifted up from too much heat.
(image jpg # 3); the 4 pads next to each other. This could be a big problem but the pads dont seem to be lifted high enough to "say it" sever the trace on the flexboard. I seriously doubt this is the issue but i could be wrong.

Relace the damaged wire i pointed out then check all wire runs before the shell is closed up. Make sure no wires are anywhere they can get pinched. Post back please and update us if you have had any progression!
 
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odingalt

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I should note that 450-500C is typically the max safe temp for flex if dialing in on a digital iron, even at these temps you can't hold the iron on the flex material forever.

High temps 600C+ are almost certain to damage the flex material (i.e. cause pads to pull away from the flex).

The higher the heat, the less time you can hold an iron to the flex material before the copper traces pull away.
 

LHPOWELL

New Member
Still cant get it to work, i rewired the trigger and checked all of the points again and they all seem to be connected well. Any other options? also dont know exactly how hot my iron is, just an old one ive had
 

WHITE 4ND N3RDY

ModdingBros Representative
I'm out of ideas as to help. All I can say is obvious stuff like is the controller board cg2? Are the batteries at full charge? And are all wires in good condition, no pinches or exposed wires?. Also could be that the pads were exposed to too much heat and the pads lifted up severing the traces. If so the flex board may be destroyed.

The only other option would be to to look at the damaged pads and follow the trace wire to where it meets up to the microchip and solder directly to the leg of the microchip where the trace wire leads.

This can be tricky as there are vias (little holes). When a trace runs into these little holes the trace gets transferred. Example say the trace your following is on the under side of the flex board, when it runs into a via u have to trace the wire from the top of the flex board where that via is. Its goes vice versa as well. Basically traces will run into each other and the vias just transfer the trace up and over another trace that's in its way. There are two sides to the traces. Top of flexboard and bottom of flexboard. There separated by a very thin barrier.

Hope this helps out some if u have to take it to this extream. This is the only other option u have to salvage the flexboard if a pad has been lifted and trace severd from too much heat.
 
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