Just Noticed LEDs Turning off?

[xKiLLa CaM]

After the last few games of my night, the player 3 and 4 LEDs were not lit after the last 3 games I played. I was using rapidfire and the dropshot mode. The lights literally just turned themselves off it seems because the modes were still enable, when I went to go turn them off, they would both appear and the one I turned off would then right after go away, and then I would turn off the other mode. IDK why this was happening. I'm using the same batteries I've been using since Friday. They still have a lot of juice, 3 bars out of 4. I'll be playing again sometime tomorrow night and I'll try with the same batteries and see if it happens again. I figured it was a battery issue but IDK.

 

[NYjetsNY1]

This may be a firmware issue that can be fixed with a driver update. Not 100% sure though. Odingalt what do you think?

 

[xKiLLa CaM]

It was really strange. I turned rapidfire on RT and dropshot mode at the beginning of a match and both LEDs were lit and fine. At the end of the match I looked at my controller and they were off and I was stumped because I know I didnt turn them off and both modes were still enabled the next match. I "reset" both modes at the beginning of the match and the LEDs were all good, til I noticed halfway through the match they turned off again. I'll be home later tonight and will see if it happens again, if it does I'll try fresh batteries or my charged battery pack and play & charge kit.

I installed the v1.1 firmware update on Friday as soon as I got my controller and it took it fine.

 

[odingalt]

Pull your batteries, are they DuraCell and do they say "ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT ACCESSORY" on them? Try new batteries. Ignore the battery level indicator - it's usually inaccurate.

 

[xKiLLa CaM]

They're exactly the batteries you are talking about. They came with the custom GOW controllers when I ordered the GOW3 xbox bundle in the fall. I read what you were talking about in the other person's topic. They're just crappy batteries??? I'll save them to use in something else but I'll try out a battery packed I charged the other day and use my play & charge kit then. I'll get back to you when I play about how it works.

 

[odingalt]

They're exactly the batteries you are talking about. They came with the custom GOW controllers when I ordered the GOW3 xbox bundle in the fall. I read what you were talking about in the other person's topic. They're just crappy batteries??? I'll save them to use in something else but I'll try out a battery packed I charged the other day and use my play & charge kit then. I'll get back to you when I play about how it works.

That sounds correct, we receive these batteries with every Microsoft controller that we purchase from our distributor. We found it strange that they were specially marked this way. The only other place I've seen selling specially marked batteries is some German company on Amazon.de selling bulk-packs of these. It makes me su****ious. No doubt MS making more money selling controllers with subgrade batteries. The funny thing is I get better results from Microsoft PNC battery packs even though those put out a much lower voltage than AA's. The only thing I can think of is with the extra juice being supplied to the modchip, those batteries can't put out enough current (even though the voltage is plenty high). Makes me wonder if Duracell either built a special model just for MS, or, when a battery fails quality control, they sell those batteries to retailers to include bundled with their products...

Used to be "Batteries not included". Now I guess it's "Crappy batteries included"

 

[TecHunter]

The Ragnarok chip needs 3 volts to operate properly? I know the chip I designed needed 3 volts, and you could not use rechargeable batteries or battery packs. AA batteries or plug in was the way to go.

Currently I use mine plugged in!

 

[xKiLLa CaM]

Yeah, i'm about to try it out with my play and charge kit and the battery pack it came with that I let charge the other day.

EDIT: Haven't had any problems with the play and charge kit yet on COD4. Bout to start playing some MW3. Game shouldn't matter. Seemed to be the issue of the batteries.

 

[odingalt]

The Ragnarok chip needs 3 volts to operate properly? I know the chip I designed needed 3 volts, and you could not use rechargeable batteries or battery packs. AA batteries or plug in was the way to go.

Currently I use mine plugged in!

No, the voltage can go as low as 2.0 volts for normal operation. The most the Ragnarok needs for USB operation is about 2.3 volts (that's when you connect your controller to the computer). A Microsoft play-and-charge pack will work fine and usually puts out around 2.4-2.6 volts. AA batteries put out 3.0 when they are fresh and less when they are dead.

The problem here is the crappy batteries that MS is including with the controller when you buy it. It is specially stamped "ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT ACCESSORY". These batteries have the voltage but don't seem to be able to put out enough amperage. My opinion is that they are "throwaways" at the factory, so they sold them in bulk to companies like MS so those companies could save money but still tell you that they included batteries with their product.

 

[xKiLLa CaM]

I never posted back here about this. I haven't had a problem since I started using my play and charge kit with the battery pack. Thanks for your help