Controller Help
- Thread starter Timbuck55
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M1A1xVIKINGxFTW
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Re: Just recieved my Viking360 Serpent Controller
there will be a working editor up tomorow (thursday 10/7/10)
there is no "operational" software as of right now. sorryTimbuck55 said:
there will be a working editor up tomorow (thursday 10/7/10)
Re: Just recieved my Viking360 Serpent Controller
TimBuck if you're not a super-savvy tech nerd guy like some of us here in the forums, I would give it a wait until tomorrow. There is a rough relese on the website's download page now but it might be less confusing to just wait until tomorrow's release, we'll be cleaning up a few things in the software. Will be easier to understand with less bugs in it.
TimBuck if you're not a super-savvy tech nerd guy like some of us here in the forums, I would give it a wait until tomorrow. There is a rough relese on the website's download page now but it might be less confusing to just wait until tomorrow's release, we'll be cleaning up a few things in the software. Will be easier to understand with less bugs in it.
Re: delete sry
Yeah shoot us PM's or just ask here, if it's something you feel comfortable asking in front of everybody, sometimes it helps later on if somebody else searches for hte same question, they'll see our conversation and maybe get their question answered just by reading our conversation.
Yeah shoot us PM's or just ask here, if it's something you feel comfortable asking in front of everybody, sometimes it helps later on if somebody else searches for hte same question, they'll see our conversation and maybe get their question answered just by reading our conversation.
Re: delete sry
Ok well. I'm a complete noob and just bought my first Xbox 2 weeks ago. Was told by a friend about the viking controllers. I know the software is sketchy at the moment but was reading and saw that its rapid fire ready out the box. Then saw something for TAC2 and some other crazy stuff I don't understand. Is it indeed rapid fire ready and how do I make it happen? Thank you, once again..FNG. Except a SGT in the army lol. Thanks.
Ok well. I'm a complete noob and just bought my first Xbox 2 weeks ago. Was told by a friend about the viking controllers. I know the software is sketchy at the moment but was reading and saw that its rapid fire ready out the box. Then saw something for TAC2 and some other crazy stuff I don't understand. Is it indeed rapid fire ready and how do I make it happen? Thank you, once again..FNG. Except a SGT in the army lol. Thanks.
Re: delete sry
Ok if you have the controller right now, just insert the battery pack and press the guide button (big green X with the chrome in the middle). The controller should power up and all four lights are flahsing. You need to sync your controller to your console. Hold down the little sync button (little tiny round button) on the top of the controller, it's next to the left bumper. Hold this down until the four lights start going around in a circle.
Find the little sync button on your console and hold it down until the four little lights on your console go around in a circle. Your console and controller should sync up and the "player 1 LED" shoudl light up on both the console and your controller.
TAC means tactile. We talk about the six extra little grey switches that are installed in your controller - we call these tactile switches or tac switches for short. LTAC2 is the "Left Tactile Switch #2".
LTAC1 - left tac switch on the top
LTAC2 - left tac switch on the bottom
LTAC3 - the other left tac switch on the bottom
RTAC1 - right tac switch on the top
RTAC2 - right tac switch on the bottom
RTAC3 - the other right tac switch on the bottom
Ok anyway, you got your controller powere up, it's synced to your console, and player1 LED is turned on. At this point you shoudl be able to tap LTAC2 or RTAC2 and watch the player3 and player4 LED's toggle on and off as you hit these TAC switches. What is happening is the modchip inside the controller is enabling and disabling rapidfire on your left and right triggers. Go launch a first person shooter game on your console. Hit the tac switch so the LED turns on (led3 = left trigger rapidfire, led4 = right trigger rapidfire), and shoot some bad guys.
Rapidfire is only effective for certain guns in certain games. In COD:MW2 the rapidfire is really only useful for usp .45 and FAL (in my opinion). Depends on what your favorite game is, rapidfire can be very useful or not useful at all. Luckily with the macro controller you can do a lot more than just plain ol' rapidfire. That concludes your tutorial for the day.
Ok if you have the controller right now, just insert the battery pack and press the guide button (big green X with the chrome in the middle). The controller should power up and all four lights are flahsing. You need to sync your controller to your console. Hold down the little sync button (little tiny round button) on the top of the controller, it's next to the left bumper. Hold this down until the four lights start going around in a circle.
Find the little sync button on your console and hold it down until the four little lights on your console go around in a circle. Your console and controller should sync up and the "player 1 LED" shoudl light up on both the console and your controller.
TAC means tactile. We talk about the six extra little grey switches that are installed in your controller - we call these tactile switches or tac switches for short. LTAC2 is the "Left Tactile Switch #2".
LTAC1 - left tac switch on the top
LTAC2 - left tac switch on the bottom
LTAC3 - the other left tac switch on the bottom
RTAC1 - right tac switch on the top
RTAC2 - right tac switch on the bottom
RTAC3 - the other right tac switch on the bottom
Ok anyway, you got your controller powere up, it's synced to your console, and player1 LED is turned on. At this point you shoudl be able to tap LTAC2 or RTAC2 and watch the player3 and player4 LED's toggle on and off as you hit these TAC switches. What is happening is the modchip inside the controller is enabling and disabling rapidfire on your left and right triggers. Go launch a first person shooter game on your console. Hit the tac switch so the LED turns on (led3 = left trigger rapidfire, led4 = right trigger rapidfire), and shoot some bad guys.
Rapidfire is only effective for certain guns in certain games. In COD:MW2 the rapidfire is really only useful for usp .45 and FAL (in my opinion). Depends on what your favorite game is, rapidfire can be very useful or not useful at all. Luckily with the macro controller you can do a lot more than just plain ol' rapidfire. That concludes your tutorial for the day.
Ok I have it sync'd but but the rapid fire isnt working.
In fact, its giving me alot of issues.. It went from lit up player 4, to lit up player one, to no lights but it still works on my xbox.. but not how it should. So it is sync'd but just not working correctly or I'm a mentally challenged which is possible. At one point, the player 1 was green and player 4 was red..I had it working for a minute then my right trigger wasnt shooting anymore. Now when I turn it on no lights come on but my xbox comes on.
In fact, its giving me alot of issues.. It went from lit up player 4, to lit up player one, to no lights but it still works on my xbox.. but not how it should. So it is sync'd but just not working correctly or I'm a mentally challenged which is possible. At one point, the player 1 was green and player 4 was red..I had it working for a minute then my right trigger wasnt shooting anymore. Now when I turn it on no lights come on but my xbox comes on.
Something to note if you have your controller plugged into your xbox with the play and charge kit it doesnt show any lights (atleast this is what my controller does). Also my lights changed colour randomly lol well i dno id turn it on and play and they'd be all red buttons, then later on i played with it and they were pink at the top then blue at the bottom and now they're all pink (the lights as in player one and rapid fire turned on on both triggers so thats what the colors of player 1,2 and 3 were) If that all makes sense lol
Try starting completely over.
Hit up the website www.viking360.com, click on downloads, click on The Viking software. Start over by following all the steps on that page (including upgrading the firmware on your device).
To run the firmware upgrade: If you pull the batteries out of the device, start holding down the START button (the right arrow/triangle button), and insert the batteries, two LED's should turn on white (this is the controller telling you it's ready to get programmed). Then follow the instructions on the website.
Hit up the website www.viking360.com, click on downloads, click on The Viking software. Start over by following all the steps on that page (including upgrading the firmware on your device).
To run the firmware upgrade: If you pull the batteries out of the device, start holding down the START button (the right arrow/triangle button), and insert the batteries, two LED's should turn on white (this is the controller telling you it's ready to get programmed). Then follow the instructions on the website.
All 4 lights are blinking red on my controller, then player 1 stays red. Ive ran the first step..downloaded the update BIN file, and downloaded and ran the update program.
after a few more tries following those directions to the T, now I have 2 red lights, the player 1 and 4. Tried running the BIN and asks me to use internet to find the file or a program.. as well as opening firmware update program the open BIN button is greyed out.
Yes, thats exactly what I did. Its greyed out exactly how yours is there. I have the plug and play connected, holding start button, put in batteries, no lights come on, run the update program and the open bin file button is greyed out. and it says it doesnt detect the controller
Hmm this is a problem, it looks like the computer is not recognizing your controller, or the controller is not going into bootloader mode. Here's what your controller should look like when you power it up using the start ubtton.
LED1(white) LED2(off)
LED3(off) LED4(white)
See what I mean? Every 'other' light should turn on white. If that's not happening then nothing else matters, the controller won't talk to the PC or do anything useful if it won't go into bootloader mode. Wondering if this is going to be our first official return for warranty repair issue.
LED1(white) LED2(off)
LED3(off) LED4(white)
See what I mean? Every 'other' light should turn on white. If that's not happening then nothing else matters, the controller won't talk to the PC or do anything useful if it won't go into bootloader mode. Wondering if this is going to be our first official return for warranty repair issue.
From everything you've said it sounds like your controller is starting up in it's normal working mode and not programming mode. You did turn it on using the start button and not the guide button correct? Because what you describe is what happens when you turn it on with the guide button. I'm also guessing the bottom of the flasher program says device not detected. The buttons will be greyed out until it sees your controller. If your controller is disconnected from your computer and off. Then you turn it on using the start button you should get 2 white lights p1,p4. Then plug it into your computer with the plug and play cable the lights should all go out and the software will/should see the controller.
The player 4 led turning on for you was probably caused by accidentally hitting the top tac switch on the back of the controller, turning on rapid fire.
The player 4 led turning on for you was probably caused by accidentally hitting the top tac switch on the back of the controller, turning on rapid fire.
Code:
Check led 1 and led 4 lights are they lit? I found that in order for me to get my pc to recognize my controller I had to
unplug battery pack.
Plug battery pack back in.
Turn on controller with start button.
Finally plug the play and charge kit to 1st computer then with your controller in programming mode "led1 and led4 lit" plug PnP cord into controller.Timbuck55 said:
Don't start with the plug and play connected.
Start with no battery pack in the controller. Unplug the play and charge cable. Basically you're sitting there with just the controller and the battery pack in your hand. Try real AA's, set aside the play and charge pack for now. Low batteries will make it so the computer doens't want to see your device.
Ok, hold down the start button and insert the battery pack (that has the real AA's in it). Keep holding down the start button. You should see two of the four LED's turn on in white. If not, there is a problem.
Once you've confirmed this step, we can move onto the next step.
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