What's the point of all the features if... (My Viking Experience)
- Thread starter dudesikoff
- Start date
dudesikoff
New Member
Yes this (charging) problem is with the new PnC and Battery Pack.
Could I use rechargeable AA batteries and have more power than the battery packs, because if so I would do that. And with rechargeable batteries, can i use the PnC to charge.
I currently do not use Rechargeable batteries, but if you think they would be better than the standard pack, I would switch
Could I use rechargeable AA batteries and have more power than the battery packs, because if so I would do that. And with rechargeable batteries, can i use the PnC to charge.
I currently do not use Rechargeable batteries, but if you think they would be better than the standard pack, I would switch
HippieMagic
New Member
My LEDs are different colors unless I use AAs or keep the controller plugged in and fully charged. Pink can be red, blue, or violet for instance. It straightens out after it's charged fully. I understand I won't get the best performance out of a battery pack though.
MJ23KB24
ModdingBros Leader
yes using AA rechargeable batteries will make a difference and the controller not charging may be the PnC cable ive had numerous cables and theyve always went out on me sometimes sooner or later. That or the battery pack burns out on me.
I would try using your PnC cable on a different controller along with the battery pack see if it helps any. That will also boost the LEDS and may improve your macro problems
I would try using your PnC cable on a different controller along with the battery pack see if it helps any. That will also boost the LEDS and may improve your macro problems
Vanilla Gorilla 808
New Member
I don't mean to threadjack but...I can personally vouch for their awesome customer service.
WOW! Awesome!
Fredrow
Active Member
Hey E' I have a theory about the problem with this guy's controller; well only the problem with the random charging issue he claims....
I did notice that your USB-switch circuit (I think your using a MAXX chip) is basically following the recommend setup from the data sheet?
One suggestion that I would give is to increase the size of the capacitors in that circuit. This problem really reminds me of the same issues that were
encountered while I was back in school. (I might have told you about this before) We built that RS-232 circuit that have inside the data sheet for MAX232-IC the weird thing was that some people had to increase the capacitors of that circuit in order for it to work right. The circuit was built for serial connection but I used a USB converter; well I'm just saying that maybe increasing the cap size a tad could solve the problem. I'm gonnna look through my 'ish because I remember my instructor had us copy down this one formula he had use to determine the reason for increasing the caps and by how much.
I did notice that your USB-switch circuit (I think your using a MAXX chip) is basically following the recommend setup from the data sheet?
One suggestion that I would give is to increase the size of the capacitors in that circuit. This problem really reminds me of the same issues that were
encountered while I was back in school. (I might have told you about this before) We built that RS-232 circuit that have inside the data sheet for MAX232-IC the weird thing was that some people had to increase the capacitors of that circuit in order for it to work right. The circuit was built for serial connection but I used a USB converter; well I'm just saying that maybe increasing the cap size a tad could solve the problem. I'm gonnna look through my 'ish because I remember my instructor had us copy down this one formula he had use to determine the reason for increasing the caps and by how much.
There are no capacitors shown in the suggested application circuit of the FSUSB30MUX datasheet. There are suggested testsing circuit schematics showing R, L and C values, but these are academic and repesent things such as trace to trace capacitance, mutual inductance, etc.
Here's one theory - if he puts the controller into "USB programming mode" (by powering it up using his start button) and then plugs it into his PC or his console, IT WILL NOT CHARGE. The controller must be powered up in "GAME" mode, by powering up the controller using the XBOX guide button.
If the controller is powered up in USB programming mode, the USB switch disconnects the Play-and-charge port from the XBOX controller's circuitry and instead connects to the modchip. This would keep the controller from charging since you've effectively just disconnected the data lines for the charging. I was always under the assumption that the XBOX controller circuitry had a "shut off", that it uses the d+/d- to communicate somehow during charging, and if it can't communicate, then it won't charge. If you read the customer's description of the charging issue, he suggests that when it decides not to charge, the LED doesn't even come on.
Here's one theory - if he puts the controller into "USB programming mode" (by powering it up using his start button) and then plugs it into his PC or his console, IT WILL NOT CHARGE. The controller must be powered up in "GAME" mode, by powering up the controller using the XBOX guide button.
If the controller is powered up in USB programming mode, the USB switch disconnects the Play-and-charge port from the XBOX controller's circuitry and instead connects to the modchip. This would keep the controller from charging since you've effectively just disconnected the data lines for the charging. I was always under the assumption that the XBOX controller circuitry had a "shut off", that it uses the d+/d- to communicate somehow during charging, and if it can't communicate, then it won't charge. If you read the customer's description of the charging issue, he suggests that when it decides not to charge, the LED doesn't even come on.
40_ounce
Member
Yeah to tell you guys the truth I really like viking but after my second controller's thumb stick broke I'm just not going to buy any more modded controllers. See the thing is that I know it's not vikings fault and I know that after awhile the thumb stick will brake maybe after a couple of years wich i didn't own it for that long but charging another $50 and shipping both ways is a lot of money especially nowadays. But I do want to thank Fred for being the only person to help me on that. When I asked odin if I can get it repaired I was told that it's not vikings fault and it's because of using the controller to play COD for so many hours and it's not cost effective for him and his wife to fix broken controllers..... But what else are we doing with these modded controllers.... Anyway I just wanted to let you guy's in on my thoughts in and say I'm done with these expensive controllers even though I would really like to buy another one. I'm just going to try and repair my controller myself and if I destroy it oh well it's been sitting in my closet for over a year..............
I can't blame you. At the end of the day, the plastic, joysticks, d-pad and buttons of the Viking controller are all microsoft quality which isn't the greatest! I wish we could be nice and do some of these basic upgrades/repairs like broken sticks. The problem is dishonest customers. 9 times out of 10 they tell us "oh the sticks are just worn out, can't you replace them", but when they send the controller in the void warranty sticker is missing, the wires are all torn off the mod, etc. etc. We've had this pulled on us so many times that we just made the decision that under no circumstances will we take a send-in service or make any exceptions for out of warranty repairs. (Well we still do make some exceptions but we still get burned every once in awhile).
Unfortunately for the few honest customers of you out there it means you can't get your mod fixed up for cheap by Viking360 any more! :-( If anyone has any ideas on how we can perform a lie-detector test before a customer actually sends in their controller I'm all ears! Even when we warn customers that if they send us a junker we won't fix it, they still try it - sending an opened controller with a damaged mod and/or damaged wires. Then we end up having to pay $20 out of our pocket just to ship back the junker to the customer. We try to get shipping for this, but we can't always.
Charge shipping before they even send it odingalt. Also charge for the repair firsthand. Then refund the cost if it was actually a worn thumbstick.
To 40_ounce, I play a ton of cod and my thumbsticks have never gotten worn out. I do use FPS freeks, maybe you want to try those?
To 40_ounce, I play a ton of cod and my thumbsticks have never gotten worn out. I do use FPS freeks, maybe you want to try those?
40_ounce
Member
Yeah i always FPS freaks when playing COD and will also use them to play BF3. My thumnstick didn't get worn out the left one actually snapped off.
dont know whats wrong with your controller ,you know when i first got the controller i promised myself i would never drop my controller and take good care of it,but the more i try to do that it never happens . i droped my controller about 4 to 5 times alrealy im just so lucky that it still works just like the day i bought it lol im really lucky my controller took some heavy falls i try to keep it on the floor so that theres no way it can fall now where is it gonna fall to hell hahaahha
you can have people take pictures or record a video of the controller or whats wrong with it
Sgt Jax Mehoff
Useful Poster
Well I know nothing is perfect and the mod may stop working or the thumb sticks wear out, but what if the "honest" people sent pictures of the controller to prove it. I bought mine (it took me alot of saving like 2 months of working outside on a farm) but if something ever happened to mine could I just send you pictures because I would be devastated to have the best mod in the world that is faulty
wow, after reading this i believe the user has an issue at home and cannot understand it and automatically blames the manufacturer. props goes to viking on trying to fix even though it really wasnt there fault but left the small "lotto winner " percentage-- not for dead and apeased the consumer three times already wow kudos
Fredrow
Active Member
40_ounce you got a deal right there at $50. I'm not trying to start a flaming war (as E' likes to call them; That was a joke!!) here but I do gotta say my side of it. Broken sticks! I have done a few stick replacement jobs here lately. Lets see you get new joysticks & thumbsticks. My time de-solder the worn-down joysticks and install the new joysticks. Most of the time I have to (well dont have to but maybe I might start skipping this step) de-solder the whole V360 board (or remove the Macro board) and then clean the whole inside of the controller because its so nasty and crap all up on the controllers PCB can mess with stuff, like how your controller reacts, responses, works!! That all takes time. Knowledge isn't free, one thing you could have done if money was the problem is search CL in your area for a electronics/PC repair shop and have them do it. Then you wont have to worry about shipping, but you might have to worry about taxes! There is more I can add on to but I think my point was made that changing out the joysticks plus hooking you up with thumbsticks too at $50 I think you paid $60 total because I ship through USPS and most of the time its only $10 shipping back to you....
dudesikoff
New Member
Viking Controller Rapid Fire Won't Work
Okay, I have had the same problem, and by now a lot of forum members know whats been going on with my controller(s). That second problem is how my controller starts before it completely breaks. I'm not saying yours is going to break, I doubt it but, if it does it can lead hopefully to a solution to why our controllers are doing this.
The first issue could be due to a loose battery pack connection, my controller does that on occasion. When your battery pack is in and controller is on, give it a slight shake, or even a bump, if your controller turns off that's the problem.
Okay, I have had the same problem, and by now a lot of forum members know whats been going on with my controller(s). That second problem is how my controller starts before it completely breaks. I'm not saying yours is going to break, I doubt it but, if it does it can lead hopefully to a solution to why our controllers are doing this.
The first issue could be due to a loose battery pack connection, my controller does that on occasion. When your battery pack is in and controller is on, give it a slight shake, or even a bump, if your controller turns off that's the problem.
dudesikoff
New Member
Viking Controller Rapid Fire Won't Work
I have tried fully charged batteries, I reinstalled the firmware, and reloaded different types of macro sets, my macros work, just nothing to do with rapid fire.
Not a surprise but whatever. Also my controller doesn't charge with my PnC, and the PnC is functional. I'm refused a repair, so any troubleshooting ideas?
I have tried fully charged batteries, I reinstalled the firmware, and reloaded different types of macro sets, my macros work, just nothing to do with rapid fire.
Not a surprise but whatever. Also my controller doesn't charge with my PnC, and the PnC is functional. I'm refused a repair, so any troubleshooting ideas?