USB Device Not Recognized :(

Fredrow

Active Member
Man, I swear this has to be my worst month -_-

I can't take pictures because my camera and phone broke :mad:

Sorry Fredrow, But hey can I still send the controller in?

You can but wouldn't it be more satisfying if I were to just give you tips/pointer's along the way of you
fixing the controller on your own? You told me that you run your own lil' mod-shop so you should already be
a step above the rest! Then with my help guiding you this will be a easy repair!! All you need is a working camera so that I can
get a peeping-Tom's view of your controller. Can't you borrow a camera from a friend or something?
 

mlongo3

New Member
You can but wouldn't it be more satisfying if I were to just give you tips/pointer's along the way of you
fixing the controller on your own? You told me that you run your own lil' mod-shop so you should already be
a step above the rest! Then with my help guiding you this will be a easy repair!! All you need is a working camera so that I can
get a peeping-Tom's view of your controller. Can't you borrow a camera from a friend or something?

Okay, Do you know what?!? I'm going to repair this thing myself :D

I'll keep you updated with those pictures!
 

Fredrow

Active Member
How many layers of electrical tape do you have covering the bottom of the Viking360 Purple Board?


Also you may want to remover some of the solder on a couple of those solder connections that are located on the controllers PCB but they are right in the same area that one would lay the V360 Purple Board at! (make sense?)
 

mlongo3

New Member
How many layers of electrical tape do you have covering the bottom of the Viking360 Purple Board?


Also you may want to remover some of the solder on a couple of those solder connections that are located on the controllers PCB but they are right in the same area that one would lay the V360 Purple Board at! (make sense?)

-_-

I think I figured out the problem......I don't have anything covering the bottom of the board -.-
Wow, I feel stupid, this may be the problem.

Also you may want to remover some of the solder on a couple of those solder connections that are located on the controllers PCB but they are right in the same area that one would lay the V360 Purple Board at! (make sense?)

I didn't really get what you were trying to tell me :|

[EDIT]
Just re-read the last part, I will also fix that!
 

mlongo3

New Member
Quick Question:

Is it possible that reason it's not programming is due to the V-Chip being messed up'd? I'm not saying that mine is but could that ever happen?
 

IrishStyle

New Member
It is possible to burn up purple chip but I think it would be pretty difficult. But I think your problem lies in the 3.5 jack. Can you get the controller into bootloader mode?
 

IrishStyle

New Member
Well then I would say the chip is fine and the problem is the jack. I would think its D points or the jack isn't grounded like fred said. Can you link to the type of jack you are using since you have no camera?
 

Fredrow

Active Member
Also you may want to remover some of the solder on a couple of those solder connections that are located on the controllers PCB but they are right in the same area that one would lay the V360 Purple Board at! (make sense?)

-_-
I didn't really get what you were trying to tell me


This is what I was referring to about removing some of the solder form the solder points located on the controllers PCB and are in the exact location were we place the V360 purple board on the controllers PCB.
Here are a few pics of what I was talking about. You just need to suck some of the solder from the solder points located in the "YELLOW" circle. The purpose of this is to make the solder points smaller, so that there is no way they can poke up into the bottom of the V360 board.
XYR8o.jpg


kFbW5.jpg


jI6vx.jpg




 

Fredrow

Active Member

One thing has me very courious? Can you please tell me what (or draw-out) what connections went where, after you ran the test using your DMM, and testing the 3.5mm jack to USB cable while it was plugged into the jack you are using? You said that you ran that test? I want to know what pins of the jack were inline with the connectors on the USB end of the cable?
 

mlongo3

New Member
One thing has me very courious? Can you please tell me what (or draw-out) what connections went where, after you ran the test using your DMM, and testing the 3.5mm jack to USB cable while it was plugged into the jack you are using? You said that you ran that test? I want to know what pins of the jack were inline with the connectors on the USB end of the cable?

Yay! I got it to work finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Thanks Everyone here on the forums for helping me (Fredrow, lol) Turns the problem was the draw off of the Usb-3.5mm was actually backwards than a regular Usb male port (think its just that company cable....oh well!)


I'm currently making another controller with a Viking Legacy Chip, this is going to be a Thor's Hammer with a Tact. switch instead of the sync :D
 

mlongo3

New Member
Why bother doing that? Basically add one more tact and it's a Raven...

I knew someone was going to say that....but the reason is because I want both, A Raven and A Thors Hammer. The reason I'm not using the sync for the Thors hammer is because I dont want it de-syncing. I know someone is going to tell that I won't de-sync with the sync if I hit it correctly. I just want it to be simple.

But thanks for asking.

*EDIT*
Plus, It's not just adding a tactical switch. You have to switch a couple wires and then add the tact. switch (drill a hole, ground it, solder it to F or H, then switch a couple wires on the board and add new ones).
 
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Fredrow

Active Member
Yay! I got it to work finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice dude!! See I knew you could pull it off...

Turns the problem was the draw off of the Usb-3.5mm was actually backwards than a regular Usb male port (think its just that company cable

I can kind of imagine what your trying to explain, but can you please give some sort of a more detailed description of the problem you ran into? Thanks..

Yo dude I gotta give ya props again on doing a great job on getting that Raven up in the air!!! Ball'in


The reason I'm not using the sync for the Thors hammer is because I dont want it de-syncing. I know someone is going to tell that I won't de-sync with the sync if I hit it correctly. I just want it to be simple.

Well you are right about one thing, I'm going to tell ya about the using the SYNC button! I must have mentioned this 100x in the last forums (but we lost a lot of good data when V-Digi made the forum swap!) But I have already answered this before and gave a quick detailed writeup. Here is a link to the post I'm talking about [post=27873]How-To-Properly-Use-SYNC-Button[/post]

Plus, It's not just adding a tactical switch. You have to switch a couple wires and then add the tact. switch (drill a hole, ground it, solder it to F or H, then switch a couple wires on the board and add new ones).

Basically add one more tact and it's a Raven...

Yeah your basically just adding another tact switch. One thing to always know/remember whenever your installing any component V+ and GND is always a given when talks of installing "aka" adding....
 

mlongo3

New Member
Nice dude!! See I knew you could pull it off...



I can kind of imagine what your trying to explain, but can you please give some sort of a more detailed description of the problem you ran into? Thanks..

Yo dude I gotta give ya props again on doing a great job on getting that Raven up in the air!!! Ball'in




Well you are right about one thing, I'm going to tell ya about the using the SYNC button! I must have mentioned this 100x in the last forums (but we lost a lot of good data when V-Digi made the forum swap!) But I have already answered this before and gave a quick detailed writeup. Here is a link to the post I'm talking about [post=27873]How-To-Properly-Use-SYNC-Button[/post]





Yeah your basically just adding another tact switch. One thing to always know/remember whenever your installing any component V+ and GND is always a given when talks of installing "aka" adding....

Thanks!

My USB-3.5mm cable was "flipped" i guess...like the Power and ground pins were right, but the + and - were both switched. That's the simplest form I could think of explaining it. lol
 

Fredrow

Active Member
Thanks!

My USB-3.5mm cable was "flipped" i guess...like the Power and ground pins were right, but the + and - were both switched. That's the simplest form I could think of explaining it. lol

How did you come to this conclusion?

So they were "flipped" compared to what?
 
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